Opened: April 15, 2008
What: The Wild West was tamed in the USA early last century, but Shanghai has turned it back loose. The town where dreams and fortunes are won or gunned down now has its own cowboy-themed steakhouse.
Look: Swinging saloon doors, waitresses in cowboy hats, and even a mechanical rodeo bull. There’s an overload of wood, and, naturally, lots of red, white, and blue, mostly in the bunting. There’s even a dance floor with saddle posts. It’s ridiculous and fun.
Food: Cowboys were real men. Real men eat steak (even when it’s from Australia). You can start with a 8oz filet mignon and get as yee-ha as a 20oz Porterhouse. It’s grilled over mesquite charcoal, creating both a super high heat and an edge of smokiness. Side orders of creamy spinach and sauteed mushrooms, plus Caesar salads and fishy mains, attempt to provide a little balance.
Bill: The porterhouse is ¥375; other mains hover around ¥75-155. A large glass of Hoegaarden is ¥70. Everything gets slapped with a 15% surcharge.