One of our favorite venues on newly-hip Yongkang Lu is this über-French cafe and bar. Stagiaire means "trainee" or "intern" (look out for the resumés decorating the toilet walls), but it's a professional outfit. The menu is printed on big sheets of folded brown paper, and coffee comes in those metal and enamel cups. Get there between 4pm and 8pm for happy hour, and you'll get house wine or draft Heineken for 20 RMB per glass. At other times, house red and white starts at 30 RMB per glass, and cocktails go for 50 RMB. If you're hungry, choose from a small selection of cheese and meat plates, or order delivery from nearby Sheng Sushi.

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